Of Mexico, the Old Maya, and the Sea

By Jim Benning
National Geographic Adventure

THANKS TO THE HEADLINE-GRABBING peasant uprising there eight years ago, whenever I heard of the southern Mexican state of Chiapas I found myself imagining masked, rifle-toting Zapatistas. But after a friend made the journey and returned with rave reviews, I headed south and found a peaceful region of Indian villages where Spanish is a second language and ancient Maya ruins rise from the jungle. Chiapas can easily be tacked onto a trip to the Yucatan Peninsula: Dive in stunning caverns, trek in a reserve, or kick back in a beachside hammock.

* WHERE TO GO Start by flying into Tuxtla Gutierrez, then take a bus to San Cristobal de Las Casas, a base for visits to surrounding Indian villages. (You’ll need a guide; inquire at your hotel for a recommendation.) The Maya ruins at Palenque are a couple of hours away; continue on to Misol-Ha to swim in a jungle pool fed by a waterfall. To the northeast lies Merida, a good jumping-off point for the ruins of Chichen Itza. Finally, go to the beaches north of Tulum. Tank-Ha Dive Center at Playa del Carmen (52-984-873-0302; www .tankha.com) offers ocean diving excursions ($55 for two tanks), as well as three-hour snorkeling trips for $25 and half-day scuba diving trips to submerged freshwater caverns ($90). Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, just south of Tulum, is home to toucans, spider monkeys, and jaguars. Ecocolors (www.eco travelmexico.com) runs one-day kayaking and hiking trips for $90.

* HOW TO GO During the fall low season, flights to Tuxtla Gutierrez, returning from Cancun, can cost as little as $600 from New York and $550 from Los Angeles. Check travel Web sites or contact specialized agencies such as the Adventure Travel Company (800-467-4595; www.atcadven ture.com) or consolidators like Exito Travel (800-655-4053; www.exito travel.com). From the Tuxtla airport, it’s a two-hour, $4 ride to San Cristobal de Las Casas. Buses run safely and cheaply in the region; the longest stretch on this trip, from Palenque to Merida, takes 12 hours and costs $24. When it’s time to return home, ride the bus from Tulum to Cancun ($6, two hours) to catch your flight.

* LODGING AND FOOD Modest hotels in San Cristobal de Las Casas charge about $15 for a double; a high-end choice is Casa Felipe Flores, which is 150 or so years old ($75; www.felipe flores.com). In Palenque, try Posada Bonampak ($6; 52-916-345-0925). In Merida, doubles with baths at the Trinidad Galeria cost about $20 (52-999-923-2463). The beaches near Tulum are dotted with inexpensive cabana operations. Staple fare such as enchiladas and chicken and beef tacos start at a couple of dollars. In Chiapas, try the local sopa de pan, or bread soup; on the Yucatan Peninsula you’ll find fresh seafood, as well as sopa de lima, a zesty lime soup.

* SAFETY Chiapas has been peaceful for some years, but rebel groups still exist. If you plan to travel to the region, call the U.S. embassy in Mexico for the latest security information (52-555-080-2000).

14 DAYS IN Chiapas

AIRFARE

East Coast/West Coast to Tuxtla Gutierrez, returning from Cancun $600/$550

LOCAL TRANSPORTATION

Buses, taxis $70

LODGING

Three nights in San Cristobal, two in Palenque, three in Merida, five near Tulum $2601

ACTIVITIES

Cavern diving; biosphere visit $180

FOOD

42 meals $250

INCIDENTALS

Maps, archaeological site fees $20

TOTAL $1,380/$1,330

Photo by lapin.lapin via Flickr, (Creative Commons).